Tools
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These are the instructions for the most current kit( July 2022) if you purchased a kit before June 2022 please follow the legacy instructions(PDF)
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It's alwasy a good idea to have all the parts and tools you'll need laid out before starting in a well lit area
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Unplug the amp and put on your safety goggles
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Remove the tubes, unplug the speaker, unplug the reverb from the chassis( be sure to note which plug is white and which is red), and remove the clips holding the power cable to the chassis
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Remove the screws holding the back panel and remove it. Unscrew the chassis screws and straps on the top of the amp.
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The chassis should slide out easily exposing the circuit board. It's easiest to work on with the chassis completely removed from the cabinet
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Skipping this step could result in death!
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Using your multimeter set to DC measure the voltage between SP1 and ground. If the voltage is higher than 15V you need to drain the voltage from the caps.
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Use a lead with alligator clips on both sides to connect pin 3 on V1 and pin 1 on V1, leave it connected until the voltage at the filter caps measures under 10 volts. This will slowly and safely drain DC from the amp.
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Measure the voltage DC until it is less than 10VDC. You can leave the alligator clips in place to keep the caps from recharging, just remember to remove them before you turn the amp on when you finish!
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Remove the control knobs by loosening the set screws and all nuts securing the pots and jacks to the chassis
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Clip the zip tie holding the bias pot to the main PCB
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Unplug the quick connects that connect the control PCB to the main PCB
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Replace the tone stack caps as shown in the pic.
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A very popular mod on vintage Fenders is to replace the bass and mid caps on the vintage channel( C8 and C9) with .022 caps. We've included those caps if you want to try it. It'll make the amp a little smoother and the lows less woofy
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If you want to modify the Custom Channel back to Deluxe Reveb specs you need to remove the 18k resistor on the back of the board and solder a lead in it's place as shown in the pic and also install a .047 cap in C4 instead of the stock .022
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Clip the remainder of the zip ties holding thhe transformer leads together and remove the screws holding the main PCB to the chassis. It's possible to complete the mods without removing the rest of the quick connects, but is much more difficult. If you remove the leads be sure to mark each lead so you can put it back in the right place.
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Remove the leads on the top of the main board by C5 and R12( pic)
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Remove the old components and install the new components as in the pic
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Only do this step if you purchased the Supreme mod kit
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Change out the components on the main PCB indicated in the pic
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Put the screws back in the main PCB and flip the amp over. There is a cover over the power filter caps that will need to be replaced
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Replace the caps as indicated in the pic. C31, R65, and R66 are removed and a clipped off lead from one of the components is jumpered where R65 was.
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Put the filter cap cover back in place
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Make sure that all excess leads are clipped and new solder joints are secure. Carefully put the PCB back into place making sure none of the leads to the other PCBs or tube sockets have been disconnected
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Replace all the PCB mounting screws.
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Dress the transformer leads. Poor lead dress can and will cause noise in an amp. Twist the green heater wires together and any other lead pairs together. All other leads crossing each other should do so at a 90 degree angle
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DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WORK
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Re-install the chassis the same way you took it apart. Install the three small screws holding the back of the chassis to the top of the amp. Plug in the reverb and clips holding the power cord and reverb cable. Plug in the speaker cable. Install the back panel, then main chassis screws and straps on top
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Replace the tubes and you should be ready to rock!
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