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2
Yes, from a different mod. It's a pic from an eariier iteration of the kit with a different kind of master volume mod.
Signal routing and bypassing clipping diodes
Sorry for the delay! It's not the worst thing that can happen! You have a couple options. You can either carefully scrape the trace the pad connects to down to copper and solder the component to that or you can run a wire between the component and the next component the trace leads to. In our shop we do both depending on application. Worst case scenario you can take it to a tech or send the chassis to us to repair.
The pdf is the old instruction set. We highly recommend using the April 2022 online instructions that replace the ribbon cable, the process isn't too bad and it sounds superior to the previous mods. You can do the old mods, but you'll be short one 8" wire that the new kits don't use.
Yes, one of the red LED's goes in D5, the shorter lead on the left side and the longer lead on the right.
Go ahead and email us directly at Fromelelectronics.com and we can get you taken care of!
It can be connected to either, but C9 is a better connection and more aesthetically pleasing
Moving it to the new ground can reduce noise.
C1 is a 22uf/ 25v( or 35v or 50v or 63v - depending on parts availability any of those will work fine) and C4 should be a 2.2uf electrolytic( this cap turns the fat switch into just a full frequency boost - much more usable!). They can look very similar to each other, though our current stock of 22uf are blue and 2.2uf are gold.
R66 is actually part of the voltage divider circuit that sends some of the voltage to the 220uf/ 100V cap that gets permanently removed in the kit installation.
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